Discover a new paradise in Laos

Over the past 20 years, I have visited a number of forested areas in both Laos and other countries, but when I went to the Nam Theun 2 reservoir and Nakai-Nam Theun National Park recently - wow!, I found a totally  different and amazing place.
The reservoir was created as part of the Nam Theun 2 hydropower project when a huge area of plateau was flooded in 2008, comprising 450 square kilometres, equal to two-thirds the size of Singapore, which is 728 sq km in size. More than 5,000 people live in communities around the reservoir.
Close by, the 4,270-square-km national park spanning the provinces of Khammuan and Borikhamxay is one of the last remaining wildernesses in Southeast Asia and a global hotspot for biodiversity.

Buffalo is a kind of animals bred by villagers in Nam Theun 2 reservoir.

Although this region is not officially open to visitors, thousands of people come here each year, despite the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic.
Last week, I was part of a group of 24 people, including media personnel, led by the Deputy Minister of Information, Culture and Tourism Mr Savankhone Razmountry, on a visit to the national park. The visit was organised by the Nam Theun 2 Power Co., Ltd in cooperation with the Lao Journalists’ Association.
Our main objective was to camp in Nahao, a hidden village situated in the jungle which is accessible only by boat. We also planned to see the Tad Gneem waterfall and a rare stand of Chinese swamp cypress (known locally as mai hing sam).
This type of cypress was listed as a critically endangered species on the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) red list in 2006, but hundreds of these trees can be found in the park.
So, trekking, camping and a boat trip were some of the highlights of our trip to explore the wonders of this national park.
Phosy Thalang
Phosy Thalang was the starting point of our trip. Phosy is the name of the man who owns a restaurant and guesthouse and provides tents for camping. He also organises tours to the reservoir and the national park.
Thalang was popular with the French when they inhabited this area during the Indochina war in the mid-20th century. French soldiers forced Lao people to build Road No. 8 in Khammuan province.
Thalang lies next to a bridge across the Nam Theun 2 reservoir, alongside the Nakai plateau, and serves as a gateway between Thakhaek district – the capital of Khammuan province - and Borikhamxay province’s Khamkeut district.
Guesthouses with wifi are available and it’s possible to look out over the water, watch fishing boats, and eat at a waterside restaurant or have a picnic. Boat trips to explore the islands in the reservoir can be arranged through guesthouses and local boat operators.
Boat trip on the reservoir
We left Phosy Thalang for Nahao village at 8:30am, crossing the Nam Theun 2 reservoir. It should have taken about two hours to reach the village but the boatman got lost on the way so it took us 2 hours and 30 minutes. One of the passengers joked that we got lost because the boatman was always looking at his wife. But his wife said she hadn’t travelled this way for the past two years and didn’t remember it well.
I felt refreshed when the boat ploughed through waves, splashing water onto my face. We crossed the reservoir before entering the Xot River, allowing us to see the thick forests that are part of the national park. Thousands of dead trees rise up from the surface of the reservoir despite attempts to remove them before the 1070MW Nam Theun 2 hydropower plant began commercial operations in 2010.
Local villagers make a living from growing crops, raising livestock, and fishing. Those who were displaced by the dam are allowed to catch fish for their personal needs and to sell but are banned from using destructive methods to catch fish.
People from outside the area need to register if they want to fish and are not allowed to catch more than 5 kilograms. Every village has a fish conservation zone which is closely managed as part of efforts to ensure sustainable development in the area.
Along the way, we saw cattle on an island and buffalo swimming in the river. We also saw elephant dung and our hopes were raised at the possibility of seeing these majestic animals in the wild.
When we arrived at Nahao village at 11am, we were welcomed by the local people. Some children ran towards us, but when I pointed my camera at them, they ran away. It felt like we were strangers.
When I walked into the village, my feelings changed and I felt very calm and relaxed. The locals prepared some very tasty grilled chicken and fish salad for us and I was so hungry that I ate it greedily.
Nahao village
Nahao is one of several villages in the Nakai-Nam Theun National Park and comprises about 300 households from several ethnic groups, including the Brou and Phouthai.  Many of the villagers rely on the income they earn from tourism. There’s no internet connection here so I was cut off from the rest of the world, but it was fun to get a different perspective on life.
There have been many heated debates about how to ensure that local people can earn enough money to sustain them so that they don’t fell trees illegally or hunt for wild animals.
The Deputy Governor of Nakai district, Mr Sengkeo Phakhounmeuang, said there is huge potential for the development of tourism activities in the park. If properly promoted, the income generated from tourism could be used to help villagers improve their way of life and encourage them to help protect forests and wildlife.
How to get there: Phosy Thalang in Khammuan province’s Nakai district can be reached by bus or car, but it’s best to travel in a privately-owned car. From Vientiane, it is a 6-7 hour drive on Road No. 13 South, passing through Borikhamxay and Khammuan provincial capitals. You then turn left onto Road No. 12 to Nakai district and go through Khamkeut district to get to Phosy Thalang and then take boat trip to Nahao.
What to do: Take a boat trip, camp, hike, sunbathe or climb a mountain. A package tour lasting two days and one night usually costs 1.6 million kip but due to Covid 19 this time it’s discounted by 50 percent for a group of 4-10 people. The restaurant is a great place to sit and marvel at the view.
Where to eat: The restaurant is open daily and provides breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Where to stay overnight: You can stay in a hotel, resort or guesthouse, or camp in Nakai district or in Nahao village.
To be continued……

By Somsack Pongkhao
(Latest Update March 9, 2021)